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Martin's Brandenburg a winner
The Martin's Brandenburg is packed most evenings
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(everyone raves about the Rouladen, a stuffed beef roll), and by the time you finish the main component of your meal, you probably wonder how you ate so much. But don’t miss Chef Martin Vollmer’s desserts. He believes a good restaurant must offer a great finishing act, and sweets like his Black Forest Torte rarely disappoint.
Vollmer is a man who knows how to cook delicious German food. That’s not a surprise since he trained in his native Germany, worked in Munich and the Bavarian Alps, and has experience cooking at Des Moines’ Embassy Club, the Hotel Fort Des Moines, and the Ames Golf and County Club. When he first moved to the United States in 1968 he was a chef at Berhoff’s, the now defunct restaurant which was once one of Chicago’s most popular eateries. He and his wife, Beverly, weren’t even certain where Waverly was located when he answered a newspaper ad in 1994 for a restaurant looking for a cook. A few years later, they opened Martin’s Brandenburg.
Martin’s Brandenburg is located in an historic 19th century building in downtown Wavery and has the look and feel of a restaurant you might find in a side street in Vollmer’s hometown. Inside, the restaurant is cozy and there’s often a wait for a table. But it’s worth it. Vollmer gives himself another edge in the kitchen by concentrating on fresh-locally grown meat and produce for his dishes.
The menu also features American standards like steak, tenderloins, chicken, burgers and salads. Once a month, the Vollmer prepares a seven-course dinner known as Martin's Special Touch, always priced for less than $50 per person.
Martin's Brandenburg is located at 215 E Bremer Ave., Waverly. Call (319) 352-9170 for reservations. The website features updates on the constantly changing menu.
It starts with a simple appetizer plate that everybody seems to love which might feature a couple of homemade salads, a cheese spread, some wine-marinated herring, and other nibbles.
Then comes a flavorful Bavarian-style soup and a dressed-up Iceberg Lettuce salad. Regulars have trouble bypassing the deep-fried white cheese curds, which is a mistake if you hate waddling out of a restaurant, but not if you hate leaving a place wondering what you missed. The German entrees are hearty enough to enough to leave you sated
Photo by Bill Witt